Durant Nature Preserve: Border Trail & Secret Creek Trail

I love North Carolina’s weather. The distinct seasons provide a general schedule I can count on each year. Each season lasts long enough that I don’t tire before the next season begins. Then, sometime in early March the weather consistently warms up, the daffodils start to bloom, and the sun stretches beyond 6:00pm. That’s my signal to put away the snow gear, bust out the springtime table runner, finish birthday planning for my oldest, and welcome spring time.

The other weekend we took advantage of the gorgeous spring weather and headed to Durant Nature Preserve for a hike. We’ve visited Durant Nature Preserve several times over the years (see previous blog posts) but it had been awhile since our last trip. For this visit, we brought fishing nets, our collapsible bucket, and rain boots to play in the streams. Despite predictable resistance to hiking, the girls ended up having the best time!

Exploring the Border Trail at Durant Nature Preserve

Border Trail

We parked at the north entrance and set off on the White House Rd Trail (see park map). Despite grumpy moods (including a short sit-in) and warning signs about muddy trail conditions we pushed on. From the White House Rd Trail we veered right onto the Border Trail, which circumnavigates the park. The Border Trail leads downhill to the creek, where at the bottom you turn left to stay on the trail. The creek sits between the wooded Border Trail on the park’s side and the paved Simms Branch Trail on the far side. Simms Branch Trail connects to Abbotts Creek greenway trail which connects to Raleigh’s longest greenway trail, the Neuse River Trail. Despite being close to a residential neighborhood the trail feels miles away. We only heard the crunching of our boots on the leaves and the trickle of the water.

Family hiking success (for us) increases if water is involved. As soon as my kids feasted their eyes (and boots) on the creek, their hiking attitudes instantly transformed! Despite being a sunny day the water was super cold. Since the Border Trail parallels the creek, they flipped between walking on the unpaved trail and the creek. They’d scamper down the creek bank, walk through the water or hop across rocks, and then pull themselves back up the creek bank if the water level threatened to flood their boots. This type of hiking continued until we reached Whale Rocks.

Whale Rocks is a stop along the Border Trail that boasts large rock formations as big as, well, whales. My kids loved jumping from whale rock to whale rock and timing themselves to see how long it took to climb from the creek bed to the rocks and back.

After hiking with the whales we continued on the Border Trail bouncing between walking in the creek and walking on the trail. This trail is mostly flat and features many hardwood trees and rock outcrops. We found dry creek beds and natural sand pits along the way that made for fun imaginary fossil dig play. They also enjoyed climbing across several of the trees that laid across the creek.

When we hiked about halfway around the Border Trail we turned left to follow Order of the Arrow Trail to the lake. Order of the Arrow Trail is a wide, flat trail surrounded by many pine trees. At the fork in the trail we turned left to stay on the trail and continue towards the lake. When the trail intersected with White House Rd, we turned right onto White House Rd. Then we turned left on Lakeside Trail, following the north side of the lake. The map posted along the trails was a helpful guide.

The north side of Lakeside Trail parallels the edge of the lake providing gorgeous views. The girls enjoyed walking along the shore line to spot turtles, lizards, and minnows. We also saw and heard several red-tailed hawks. We walked past campsites, benches, the closed boat house, and the fishing docks before ending at the playground.

Secret Creek Trail

After playing on the playground we followed the Secret Creek Trail, which begins across from the playground. We originally discovered this trail about 3 years ago when my now 4th grader attended a field trip at Durant Nature Preserve. To this day, it was one of her most memorable fields trips. She caught (and released) tadpoles and dragonfly nymphs, and had an awesome time exploring the Secret Creek Trail with classmates.

Secret Creek Trail is an easy trail with a few small hills along the 1/2 mile hike. The trail parallels a section of the creek that has gentle banks and small waterfalls throughout. In past visits we’ve seen a family of deer behind the park office and huge turtles resting in the creek under the large trees. Again, we flip flopped between walking on the trail and walking in the water. The trail’s canopy provides a lot of coverage, making it a cooler walk during warm weather. We also discovered some large sandy spots great for picnics, digging, and relaxing. Secret Creek Trail finishes at Camp Durant Rd, so you have to walk up the hill along the road to return to the main parking lot.

After we finished our hike, we headed to Char Grill for some much needed lunch! As we ate we recounted how fun the hike was and how we can’t wait to explore it again during the warmer weather months!

Thumbs up: improved trail markings and maps, rocking climbing at Whale Rocks, easy access for exploring the creek

Thumbs down: nothing to report

Top 10 Short Hikes in Raleigh

“Of all the paths you take in life, make sure a few of them are dirt.”

John Muir

My mom was always a big believer in the healing powers of being outdoors. She didn’t do much hiking or camping, but she was really into gardening and birding. She used to joke about telling my teachers that I needed more fresh air and sunshine instead of homework and projects. Over the years, we’ve tried instilling this in our kids by trying to spend a lot of time outdoors. When it comes to hiking our kids might push (a lot) at first, but in the end their bodies naturally pull and they have a wonderful time. Therefore, we’ll keep pushing!

In light of all the local closings (including Wake County Public Schools) because of coronavirus, I’ve compiled a list of the Top 10 Short Hikes in Raleigh to do with kids. The weather forecast is looking soggy, but don’t let that stop you from suiting up in boots, raincoats and umbrellas. Finally, before heading to a park check with the individual parks to verify their operating status and follow any CDC guidelines.

Top 10 Short Hikes in Raleigh

  1. Umstead Park: Oak Rock Trail (northwest Raleigh) – this unpaved trail is about 1/2 mile long and meanders through the forest. It’s also part of the Kids in Parks TRACK trails system of family-friendly hikes. Bring water shoes, fishing nets and buckets if you want to further explore the shallow stream that crosses the trail. TRACK trails also offers several printable activities by season to incorporate while hiking.
  2. Horseshoe Farm Nature Preserve (northeast Raleigh) – features 1/2 mile natural hiking trail that runs along the tree line of the park. With over 140 acres of park land, this nature preserve is full of sun and also a great spot for flying kites, having picnics, and accessing the Neuse River Greenway.
  3. Top of the Hill Trail @ North Wake Landfill Park (north Raleigh) – features 1/4 mile walk up the gravel trail to the top of the old landfill. Once on the top, you have beautiful 360-degree views and can even see downtown Raleigh on clear days. Surrounding the bottom of the hill is a paved pedestrian path great for biking, running, scootering, etc.
  4. Museum Art Park @ NC Art Museum (west Raleigh) – features miles of paved and natural walking trails in full sun and through the woods. Our favorite things include sliding down the piggie slide, finding art in the forest (as of a few weeks ago the Hobbit House exhibit was closed and under construction), jumping over the streams, and walking along the Reedy Creek Greenway and pedestrian bridge.
  5. Durant Nature Preserve: White House Road & South Lakeside Trail (north Raleigh) – features a one-mile hike through the woods crossing streams and has lake views. Another fun shaded hike is Secret Creek Trail which starts opposite the playground. It follows a stream where we’ve regularly seen huge snapping turtles, deer and birds. If your kids love exploring aquatic habitats, bring their nets and buckets to this park! Try scooping with nets near the dock to find tadpoles and dragonfly nypmhs!
  6. Falls Lake Day Hike M Little Creek Bridge (north Raleigh) – a few months ago we hiked a portion of this more adventurous Mountains-to-Sea trail. First, we parked at the dead end of Santee Rd. Then, we hiked west across the Little Creek Bridge, which is a narrow footbridge crossing Falls Lake. After crossing the bridge we back tracked to continue on the trail in the eastern direction. The trail parallels the water and is a little hilly. We turned around after about 1.5 miles, making our whole hike about 3 miles long. Though I never blogged about this hike, I’m sharing some pictures below. It’s a must-do hike with beautiful lake views, interesting old artifacts, and
  1. Hiking Trails @ Blue Jay Point County Park (north Raleigh) – features easy, shaded trails that start near the visitor center and the playground area. Trails feature beautiful views of Falls Lake and lots of open green space throughout the park.
  2. Pott’s Branch Trail @ Umstead Park (northwest Raleigh) – relatively easy 1.6 mile hiking trail through the shaded woods. Bring your water shoes if you want to explore the small stream that parallels a portion of the stream. You access this trail from the entrance at Glenwood Ave.
  3. Loblolly Trail @ Umstead Park (west Raleigh) – beautiful out and back hike (5.4 mile round-trip distance) through the woods, so you can shorten this hike to the needs of your companions. You access this trail from the entrance at Reedy Creek Rd. The trailhead is located in the back right section of the parking lot. Though I never wrote a blog post about this trail, I’ve hiked it a few times solo and with family over the past two years. Its terrain varies with a few hills and streams to cross. The scenic Davie Pond
  1. Loop Trail @ Anderson Point Park – features a half-mile paved loop trail in the middle of the park. Great park for walking, biking, having picnics and accessing the Neuse River Greenway or Crabtree Creek Greenway.

Beyond Raleigh

If you’re looking for a quick day trip idea, here’s a few trails we’ve explored within an hour from Raleigh:

Bonus Fun

If your family hasn’t tried geocaching yet, now is the time! Our girls have recently gotten into it and especially enjoy doing it with friends. Geocaching is essentially treasure hunting in nature and all you need is your phone with GPS enabled. Geocaches are usually stored in a small container and hold a paper log of people who’ve previously found it. Sometimes the container holds small collectible items and the geocache owner might offer a trinket to you if you leave a trinket.

To begin geocaching, first you need to download the free Geocaching app. Then, scroll around the map and pick a geocache to find. Then, hunt for the geocache by following its GPS coordinates and descriptions. Finally, log the item as found in the app and sign the log book – it’s that simple! We love explore open public spaces with multiple geocaches nearby. Geocaches are everywhere – even in urban areas like downtown Raleigh. Eastgate Park is a great spot to start for geocaching, plus you can try to find the Star Wars themed geocache we added a few weeks ago!

Some additional lists I’ve compiled over the years are our favorite bike riding spots (for preschoolers), our favorite picnic spots, and drop-in rainy day to do with art ideas.

When talking with a friend earlier this week she remarked that maybe families will embrace the time together talking, reading, and playing. I love the simplicity of that thought, and will try to remember it as the days go on. Whether that time is indoors or outdoors may your families be in good health and positive spirit!

Christmas in Boone, NC

Last year my mother-in-law won a Boone Christmas package from Explore Boone that included four tickets to Tweetsie Christmas. And, guess what?! She gifted the package to our family, and we were SO pumped to use them. So, after celebrating Christmas with family in Raleigh we headed out to Boone for a fun two days in the mountains.

Staying in Boone

Included in the package was a gas card, gift certificate to Mast General Store, and a stay at the Holiday Inn in Boone. We don’t often stay in hotels when we travel because we like to have more room and cook meals. But, after a week of holiday hosting it felt great to pack less, and the accommodations at the Holiday Inn were really nice. The hotel stay included daily breakfast buffet, which the girls loved because they sampled every sugary cereal. It also included a good variety of breakfast options of bacon, eggs, sausage, yogurt and more.

The hotel is conveniently located on 321 between Blowing Rock and Boone. Several shops, grocery and restaurants are located across the street. Having arrived a few hours before the Virginia Tech bowl game, we had a few hours to unwind before football started. Then, we met up with dear VT fans (also vacationing in Boone) at The Rock Sports Bar to cheer on the Hokies. Despite losing the bowl game, the restaurant served cold beer and the adults caught up while kiddos had fun.

Snow Tubing & Hiking & Mystery Hill

Such smiley faces waiting to hike in the cold!

The morning after the bowl game, we got up early for our breakfast buffet and headed out to Hawksnest in Seven Devils for snow tubing. We wanted to keep our plans open so we didn’t pre-purchase tickets. Hawksnest sells day-of tickets on a first-come, first-serve basis (in two-hour increments) so go in with flexibility. We paid for parking and were told an upcoming time slot had space at the parking booth. Unfortunately we took too much time getting snow gear on between parking and purchasing tickets. It was a very cold weekend so imagine me bundling the kiddos like Randy from “A Christmas Story.” So, the next time slot sold out before we could buy tickets, and we couldn’t wait for a later time. Luckily, they happily refunded our parking fees and we drove back down the mountain.

As a backup to snow tubing, we conveniently hiked Otter Falls Trail located on the same drive down the mountain. The trailhead has a small nearby parking lot and is located at 825 Skyland Drive in Seven Devils. Having just left a very cool snow tubing possibility for hiking in the cold provoked some little girl tears. With some coaxing and promising for frequent stops they eventually got going.

The trail map shows several loop paths and I suggest taking a screen shot to help stay on course. Since it was a very cold and windy day we hiked the shortest route down the trail. I didn’t have to deliver on the promise for frequent stops because everyone felt most comfortable when moving (yay!). Thankfully, the girls wore their new pink Carhartt jackets and I came prepared with my deep wine Carhartt jacket (thanks Dad!). The hike started out steep, but then the grade became more manageable. Unfortunately there wasn’t much signage along the trail making it hard to remember where to turn to stay on the shortest path to the falls.

After about 1/2 mile we arrived at the falls, which flows into Valley Creek. At this time of year the falls were mostly iced over, making for a dramatic effect we don’t usually see when hiking. The steps down to the creek were a bit icy too, but once on the ground the girls enjoyed the closer view of the icicles. They said it reminded them of Elsa’s ice castle. The hike back up took some patience and strength because the girls were pretty chilled at this point. But, overall this was a moderate 1 mile hike, and would be interesting (and probably easier) to hike in other seasons.

As a last minute indoor activity we took a stab in the dark and visited Mystery Hill. Mystery Hill is kind of a tourist trap, but ended up exceeding our expectations. It features historical artifacts from the area and hands-on science fun. The girls loved experimenting with the optical illusions, trying to swing in the tilted house, and standing in the human-sized bubble. It sounds kooky, but it wasn’t too expensive and was a great way to escape the wind for an hour. 

Tweetsie Railroad Christmas

If you’ve never visited Tweetsie Railroad, it’s a must-see attraction for families when visiting the mountains. With a wild-west theme, Tweetsie features amusement rides, games, live shows, face painting, miniature train rides, a zoo, and the super popular No. 12/No. 190 locomotive train ride. Though it’s smaller than your average amusement park, its live entertainment and scenic mountain train ride sets it apart. Where else can you ride a historic locomotive while looking out for bandits?!

Tucked between Blowing Rock and Boone, Tweetsie Railroad’s history dates back to 1882 when the East Tennessee & Western NC Railroad (ET&WNC) began hauling iron ore between Johnson City, TN and Cranberry, NC. They extended the tracks to Boone by 1919, adding mail and passengers to their operations. Baldwin Locomotive Works of Philadelphia, PA built the infamous narrow-gauge rail service Engine No. 12. In 1940, large floods wiped out much of the tracks in the Blue Ridge Mountains eliminating service to Boone. Shortly after, ET&WNC ended its narrow-gauge rail service and scrapped all the old engines except for the No. 12, which moved to the Shenandoah Valley in Virginia. Finally, in 1957, the No. 12 locomotive returned to the Blowing Rock area and made its first run at Tweetsie Railroad attraction.

When we visited Tweetsie during Christmastime, the amusement park looked like Pullen Park’s Holiday Express on steroids! Twinkling lights, garland and bows beautifully decorated the park. Again, we joined our dear friends from Raleigh to share this fun experience. The park featured different attractions where kids could visit with Santa, step into a snow-filled globe, watch a Christmas-themed variety show, and eat s’mores on the jumbo outdoor fire pits. The lines were long for some of the Christmas activities, but the bright lights and s’mores easily distracted the kids. Having previously visited during summer, the kids were a little bummed to learn the regular rides weren’t operating.

The crowd favorite was the Christmas-themed night train ride. With hot cocoa or apple cider in hand, we boarded our reserved train for a magical ride around the mountain. Since the train has open windows we also bundled up and snuggled in while listening to Christmas carols and watching light displays. We definitely channeled our inner White Christmas, willing the music to play “Snow, Snow, Snow, Snow,” but to no avail.

Visiting the mountains around Christmastime definitely helped us stay in the holiday spirit. We made fun memories with friends while stretching out the Christmas season. It even started snowing on the day we left Boone. Despite the busy seasonal crowds I’d love to do it all over again!

Tickets for Tweetsie Christmas and Ghost Train are currently on sale.

Thumbs up: contrast of icy waterfalls along hike, outdoor fire pits for s’mores at Tweetsie, night train ride at Tweetsie, hot apple cider, light displays and Christmas decorations at Tweetsie

Thumbs down: regular Tweetsie rides not in operation, long lines for some of the Tweetsie-Christmas activities, poor signage along Otter Falls Trail

Emerald Isle, NC

After last summer’s sudden Bonner Bridge electric cable mishap cancelled our family vacation to Cape Hatteras we quickly jumped on a back-up plan and landed in beautiful Emerald Isle, NC. Having never visited Emerald Isle before we weren’t sure what to expect, but we were all blown away by the tranquility of the beach, beauty of the area, and convenient day excursions. Whether your family wants slow-down time at the beach or adventure at local parks, aquariums, or museums Emerald Isle has it all!

Fort Macon State Park

North Carolina has a long history of trying to protect its coastal harbors. Successive wars with Great Britain, France, Spain and pirates in the 18th and 19th centuries prompted the United States government to beef up its national defenses. After the War of 1812 the United States further improved its defenses with a string of Third System forts. Fort Macon was part of this system.

Fort Macon State Park is located at 2303 East Fort Macon Rd in Atlantic Beach, NC at the eastern end of Bogue Banks. Brig. Gen. Simon Bernard designed the fort and the US Army Corp of Engineers built it. Construction on Fort Macon began in 1826 and finished in 1834. They named the fort after statesman, Nathaniel Macon.

The Confederacy took over the fort at the start of the Civil War. In 1862, a year later, Brig. Gen. John G. Parke’s Union forces bombarded the fort using new rifled cannons. Col. Moses J. White and his Confederate troops surrendered and were held as prisoners of war. The Union army held control of Fort Macon for the remainder of the war and used it for coaling and naval repair.

After the Civil War, the fort served as a prison and then used again briefly in 1898 during the Spanish-American War. The fort became abandoned in the early 1900s until the state of NC purchased it in the 1920s. The State restored the fort and area and opened it as a state park in 1936. During World War II it was used as a lookout station for German U-boats.

Fort Macon State Park is surrounded on three sides by water. Though we didn’t explore much beyond the fort, the park features hiking trails and recreational beach areas. We spent some time inside the visitor center exploring the kid-friendly ecology exhibits before heading to the fort.

The actual fort itself is a pentagonal-shaped structure made of bricks and stone. It has an outer ring of defense, the covertway, and an inner citadel ring. A large grassy ditch separates the two areas. The inner citadel features 26 casements, many of which have been renovated to showcase different periods from the fort. The girls loved going into the different rooms and running in the tunnels. We visited nearly all the exhibits on our own, while Bill attended the guided tour, which they provide daily.

We climbed the stairs in the corners of the fort to access the top, where we saw beautiful views of the water and more closely saw the cannons. The ground is rather uneven and there aren’t guardrails at the top, so we closely monitored the littles’ movements. Overall, it was breathtaking to explore such a historic place.

NC Maritime Museum in Beaufort

After visiting Fort Macon State Park we took a short drive into Beaufort. Years ago an impending hurricane thwarted our long weekend trip to Beaufort. Thrilled to try again, we first stopped for ice cream in downtown Beaufort. After filling the girls with ice cream, we walked a few blocks to the NC Maritime Museum.

The NC Maritime Museum was much more kid-friendly than I anticipated. The girls loved finding hidden items in the scavenger hunt. The museum features exhibits on lighthouses, seafood industry, motorboats, marine life, history of boating, artifacts from Blackbeard’s Queen Anne’s Revenge, and more. I look forward to visiting one of the two other NC Maritime Museums when we visit those areas.

NC Aquarium at Pine Knoll Shores

Inevitably you’ll have at least one rainy beach day. For our rainy beach day we headed to the NC Aquarium at Pine Knoll Shores located at 1 Roosevelt Blvd on the Bogue Banks. This aquarium is similar to the NC Aquarium on Roanoke Island in that it features indoor and outdoor exhibits. The girls especially loved seeing the owls, sea horses, sea turtles, and jellyfish. The aquarium features a large touch tank, scuba diving tank, imaginary sea turtle rescue and toddler play area.

After being inside, we walked along the nature trail to see the snake exhibit and watch the egrets over the water. Then, the girls spent a lot of time exploring the outdoor play area. They loved climbing the rope ladder, swinging on the tire swing and flying down the slide. Overall, I thought this aquarium had more interesting animals and exhibits than the aquarium on Roanoke Island.

Hiking & Biking in Emerald Isle

We brought our bikes to the beach and I’m so glad we did! We were able to hop onto our bikes from our house and get onto a divided bike path and bike for miles in either direction. The bike path runs 11 miles from Indian Beach to the Point at Bogue Inlet. One morning I biked about 4 miles down to the Point and felt as if I entered a natural beach preserve. The beach extended for at least 50 yards with beautiful crystal water everywhere, justifying the nickname, “Crystal Coast”.

Along my bike ride I passed a beer shop, the Holiday Trav-L-Park RV Resort and Emerald Isle Woods Park. Bill and I biked back to the beer shop for a mini day-date and added the RV Resort to our short list of campgrounds. Another day we returned with the family to Emerald Isle Woods Park. Emerald Isle Woods Park is located on the sound-side at 9404 Coast Guard Rd, just past where Route 58 turns to the mainland. This park features disc golf, hiking and birding trails, picnic pavilions and boating for beautiful sound access.

We hiked a short 1.0 mile loop trail that started at the main trailhead and followed blue trail markers along a twisty, loopy unpaved trail. We passed over bridges and saw green swampy areas full of croaking and bird calls. Eventually we came to a boardwalk that extended into the sound and it was a beautiful sight! The girls spotted oysters and crabs in the brackish water – a great ecological find! Though the trail signage was not great, we eventually made it back to the car with a beautiful appreciation of the hidden sights we saw.

Thumbs up: beauty of the beach, friendliness of Morehead City ER (true story for another time), hiking/biking opportunities, day excursions, great museums and parks, tranquility at the Point, photo ops

Thumbs down: nothing to report

Fort Macon State Park Gallery

 

NC Aquarium at Pine Knoll Shores

 

Hiking at Emerald Isle Woods Park

Black Mountain & Asheville, NC

On the eve of our Spring Break Camping Trip, it’s only necessary that I get back to writing about last summer! Last summer we met up with my in-laws in Black Mountain, NC for a beautiful weekend of hiking, exploring Black Mountain and beyond, and celebrating Claire’s 4th birthday. 

Sierra Nevada Brewery (Mills River, NC)

Though we stayed in a gorgeous cabin in Black Mountain, we rarely spent much time in it. We split our time between exploring Asheville and downtown Black Mountain. With Raleigh being only 3.5 hours from Black Mountain, we arrived early on a Thursday (well before check-in) and immediately headed to the Sierra Nevada Brewery in Mills River, NC. The place was unbelievable! It’s as large as a Great Wolf Lodge, and dare I say more enjoyable for all ages! We enjoyed a delicious lunch and beers before heading to the outside area where the girls played in the kiddo-friendly sandbox area while we enjoyed a second round. Sierra Nevada’s outside area is beautifully landscaped, with lots of stone hardscape for eating, gardens, an amphitheater, and large open areas for corn hole. It also features an outside bar area for ordering light snacks and drinks with full-service sit-down areas.

blackmtn - 2After exhausting the outside area, we dragged the girls (who were pretty willing) through the hallway that showcases their production areas. We glanced at the huge multi-story storage tanks, watched the bottle filling/cleaning process, and saw the packaging area. The girls mildly enjoyed watching the mechanics of how everything worked. Having toured only craft brewery operations, we were blown away by the grandness of everything at Sierra Nevada. I can’t wait to go back!

Pack Square Park (Asheville, NC)

blackmtn - 14Since we had a little time to kill before checking into our cabin we headed to downtown Asheville to let the girls run off some energy in the water fountains at Pack Square Park. The park features multiple water fountains for splashing in, a large open green space area, nearby Veterans’ Memorial, amphitheater and a few restaurants. It was the perfect quick trip on a hot summer day – we parked right along College St and quickly walked across the street to the park. I’m only hopeful the City of Raleigh will recreate a similar water feature in the new Dorothea Dix park.

Biltmore & Western NC Nature Center

My mother-in-law and I quickly snuck off to Asheville for a visit to Biltmore and its winery. It’d been over 10 years since we’d last gone, so I quickly forgot the estate’s enormity. The first time I visited I left in awe of the house. This time I left with a much greater appreciation for the forests and grounds that Frederick Olmsted created. I had only ever been to Biltmore in the late Fall, so I really enjoyed walking the gardens and seeing how the landscaped differed in Summer. While we visited Biltmore, the rest of the crew explored the nearby Western NC Nature Center. They raved about the animals they saw and the interactive exhibits for children.

Catawba Falls (Old Fort, NC)

The next day we headed to Catawba Falls, which is in Old Fort, NC and part of the Pisgah National Forest. We parked at the trailhead a few miles south of Route 40 on Catawba River Rd. The trail is about 2.5 miles out and back and climbs about 500ft in elevation. The first 80% of the trail was moderately flat and easy with the last 20% being much steeper and required climbing over slippery rocks to get to the bottom of the waterfall. 

We crossed a few streams along the way, which gave the grandparents and kiddos some time to rest and splash. Though the trail is wide, it does have some steep drop-offs so we repeatedly cautioned and held the little ones’ hands. Hiking on Saturday morning proved to be a super popular time, so it’ll take you a little longer to get those special bottom of the waterfall pictures.

After our hike we drove a few miles down the road to the Old Fort Picnic Area of Pisgah National Forest. Though this picnic area has seen better days, it features several picnic tables, old shade trees, and lots of green grass. The bathrooms were less than desirable, but we quickly finished a yummy picnic lunch just as the skies opened.

Downtown Black Mountain

blackmtn - 79After recovering from our big hike and nearly rain-soaked picnic, we rallied to explore downtown Black Mountain. Black Mountain located in Buncombe County and part of the Swannanoa Valley area is about 15 miles east of Asheville right off I-40. Black Mountain incorporated in 1893, named after the Black Mountain range that borders the town to the north. For a busy Saturday afternoon we easily found a parking spot close to our destination of Swannanoa Valley Museum & Visitor Center. The museum houses two floors of interactive exhibits detailing the history of Black Mountain and surrounding Swannanoa Valley area. The girls enjoyed pounding the keys on an old typewriter and getting hands-on experience washing clothes in the earlier days with a wash basin, washboard, and fels-napth.

Shortly after visiting the museum, we stopped at the Dripolator coffee shop for some caffeine and ice cream. Then we walked all around downtown, stopping in the homemade musical instrument shop, clothing shops and general store.

For dinner we searched Yelp for the best pizza and headed to Fresh Wood Fired Pizza & Pasta. The place looks pretty sketch from the outside, but their pizza was AHMAZING! The crust tasted delicious, the ingredients were fresh and the beer was plentiful!

We thoroughly enjoyed revisiting Asheville and exploring the new (to us) small mountain town of Black Mountain. Whether you want to focus on the food and drink, local history, outdoor beauty or a little bit of all, it features fun for all ages. I can’t wait to explore this area again, maybe in the Minnie Winnie next time!

Hughlett Point Natural Area Preserve (Kilmarnock, Va)

IMG_9598It’s week three of an NC cold wave and I’m longing for our hot summer hike in Kilmarnock, Va. When traveling last summer we started looking for hiking suggestions with the All Trails app. Its helpful app lets you filter and search by distance, rating, suitability for kids, difficulty and more. With it being a hot July day and having small children we needed a shortish hike with easy water access. After a quick search we found Hughlett Point Natural Area Preserve, which had a 2 mile trail and access to the Chesapeake Bay.

Location

The Hughlett Point Natural Area Preserve is 200 acres of undeveloped land located on a peninsula on the Chesapeake Bay, about 15 minutes northeast of Kilmarnock off Route 605. It has a large sandy shoreline, marshy wetlands, forested areas, and is home to the federally threatened northeastern beach tiger beetle. Though we didn’t see any tiger beetles, we saw several shore birds, crabs, and bugs on our hike.

The Hike

IMG_9591After parking at the trailhead we walked along the wooden walkway through the forest. We soon saw a sign post, and turned left to follow the North Loop. Shortly after starting along the North Loop we arrived on the Chesapeake Bay’s beautiful sandy shoreline. The sudden change from forest to deserted beach was breathtaking. The girls immediately waded into the water, while the adults took in the beautiful views. Being a flat undeveloped area, every direction we looked gave different views of a sandy shoreline, endless bay water, or grassy wetlands. It almost felt like we were on a deserted island.

Despite the lack of signage, we headed south hoping the shoreline kept us on the right path. Because we hiked next to the water, the full sun beat down on us, making the little ones quickly tire. My sister and I, each, soon started carrying a little one on our backs. After walking about a half mile in the sand, we cheered as the trail met back up with the mainland.

IMG_9604We caught our breath at an observation deck where the swimming crabs distracted the little’s tears. This trail features a few observation decks that overlook the flat and vast wetland areas. After watching the crabs swim through the water we continued walking on the dirt trail back to the parking lot. Unfortunately, we ran into some dense bug families through the forested walk back. Since the girls regained their breath while watching the crabs, they miraculously sprinted through the dense bug fog, and made it back to the car in record time.

For this hike, I felt we arrived pretty unprepared. We didn’t anticipate half the hike being in full sun and sand, and we didn’t bring the necessary bug spray. The Chesapeake Bay’s beautiful views and undeveloped areas made up for our lack of planning. We treated ourselves to a quick stop at the Dog & Oyster Winery on our way back to Grey’s Point Camp. The girls munched on snacks, tried soft-shelled crabs and colored oyster shells while the adults tasted wines and grilled oysters – heavenly!

Thumbs up: breathtaking views, undeveloped land, crab spotting, bird watching

Thumbs down: signage, lots of bugs

Tom’s Creek Falls & Roaring Fork Falls

“The mountains are calling and I must go.” – John Muir

Roaring Fork FallsFor our next Winnie adventure we headed to the beautiful Blue Ridge Mountains near Marion, NC. We stayed at the Mountain Stream RV Resort off Hwy 80 at 6954 Buck Creek Rd. After making a wrong turn down a one-lane gravel road (Little Buck Creek Rd) we drove a white-knuckling 3 miles to the road’s end. This was not how I expected our first big Winnie adventure to begin. After several deep breaths, I jumped out of the car to instruct Bill on turning around. Easy Peasy!

Nothing will test your marriage’s communication skills like trying to make a 3-point turn with a 20-foot trailer. Cue the Austin Power’s 3-point turn parking scene! Luckily, our family has previous experience driving down harrowing gravel roads (see my Yosemite post), so we tried to remain calm and go back on course!

Mountain Stream RV Resort

DSC_0071The Mountain Stream RV Resort was the perfect spot for camping. They have 40 camp sites situated around a loop gravel road with a grassy median. A cool, clear mountain stream runs behind more than half of the campsites. We stayed in one of their prime spots near the back of the campsite with easy kid-friendly access to the stream. We loved splashing in the water, walking upstream, and sitting at the campsite listening to the babbling stream.

Despite some big thunderstorms that came through during the weekend, we really enjoyed our time in the Winnie. The girls made friends with the neighbors, rode bikes around the gravel loop, and played in the stream. During the daytime downpours, the girls also had downtime playing cards and watching movies. We tried to go fishing, but big floods from past years pretty much wiped out the fish habitats.

We grilled yummy steak tips, broccoli, and potato wedges one night and chicken quesadillas the other night in honor of Bill’s birthday weekend. For Father’s Day breakfast, I made homemade biscuits with my new pie irons. Though they didn’t rise completely, they still tasted delicious smothered with steak, eggs and cheese. The girls gobbled down the Bisquick Shake ‘N Pour pancakes. When we weren’t eating, sleeping or playing at the campsite, we were hiking.

Tom’s Creek Falls

DSC_0115We spent all day Saturday hiking waterfalls in the Pisgah National Forest and exploring interesting places off the Blue Ridge Parkway. First, we explored the Tom’s Creek Falls, located about 20 minutes northeast of our campsite. Tom’s Creek Falls trailhead is about 1.3 miles from the intersection of US-221 and Huskins Branch Rd. This trail is about 1-mile roundtrip hike with wide gravel paths, lush green forest, and spots along the way for splashing in the creek. It’s an easy, shaded hike with gentle switchbacks towards the top. It even has benches near a clearing to rest. Along the way we spotted a lot of mica (from old mining days), ferns, and mountain laurel.

We climbed to the overlook area and then followed a narrow path to the right to access the water. Wanting to get a closer look at the falls, both girls scurried up the rocks (with our help) to the bottom of the falls, reaching an elevation of approximately 1800 ft. The water flows at three different levels before dumping into Tom’s Creek. We loved splashing in the water and being so close to the falls. 

Roaring Fork Falls

07402233-DCCE-443C-B72F-47997007596EAfter leaving Tom’s Creek Falls, we drove about 45 minutes northwest to the Roaring Fork Falls trailhead. Roaring Fork Falls trailhead is located near the intersection of S Toe River Rd and State Hwy 80. Follow the signs for about 1/2 mile until the road dead ends into a small parking lot.

Roaring Fork Falls is a 1.5 mile out and back trail, despite the “Falls .5 miles” sign near the parking lot. With the forecast calling for heavy rains, we booked it up this trail. The trail begins on an old logging road in a heavily wooded forest. The trail is slightly uphill and mostly shaded with pockets of sunlight throughout. After crossing a small wooden bridge, we climbed over roots and small stones to reach the falls. The falls cascaded down several levels creating the large roaring effect.

Ashley and Bill climbed down to the bottom of the falls while Claire and I waited on the trail. The heavy rain caused the rocks to become very slick, so we stayed safe on the trail. After a quick dip in the water, they carefully climbed back to the trail and we all rushed to the car. The rain started pouring heavier on our hike back to the car, but carrying Claire on my shoulders kept my back dry! 

The girls changed into dry clothes at the car and we enjoyed a much-deserved picnic lunch. After lunch, we hopped onto the Blue Ridge Parkway and visited the NC Minerals Museum (MP 331) and Linville Caverns. After driving at least 100 miles around mountains all day, we returned to our campsite hungry for food and thankful for nature. Watching, touching and listening to the waterfalls made us appreciate the mountains even more.

Hike Info

Thumbs up: little traffic along hikes, beautiful views, exciting waterfalls, easy family hikes, comfortable campsites

Thumbs down: no cell phone reception (although I’d put this in the thumbs up column)

Neuse River Trail MP 26.25 to 27.5 & Town of Clayton Greenways

claytongreenway - 49Over Memorial Day weekend, my sweet in-laws watched the girls while Bill and I enjoyed a biking and beers day date. Wanting to explore a new (to us) portion of the greenway, we headed to the southern portion of the Neuse River Trail near the Wake/Johnston County border. In all, we biked 15-miles (out and back total), crossed two counties, followed a river, detoured around an unpassable bridge, passed a historic bridge, and saw some art before grabbing beers at Deep River Brewing – a pretty awesome afternoon!

We parked in the greenway access parking lot at 6008 Mial Plantation Rd and turned left heading south toward Johnston County. We immediately crossed under Mial Plantation Rd bridge and passed the MP 26.25 sign. The trail is mostly flat with beautiful views of the rural fields separated by white split-rail fence. Shortly after, we biked past the Wake/Johnston Co line at MP 27.5, creating a fun selfie spot. The Town of Clayton maintains the greenway past the Wake County line with a portion of it affiliated with the East Coast Greenway.

Clayton River Walk on the Neuse

claytongreenway - 19Continuing on Clayton’s greenway (technically called Clayton River Walk on the Neuse), we arrived at the Riverwood neighborhood where we found the bridge damaged and unpassable. At the time we didn’t see signage showing a detour route so I jumped onto the Town of Clayton website. I learned that last fall’s Hurricane Matthew caused near record flood levels for the Neuse River and took out the bridge. The town’s website shows a detour route through the Riverwood neighborhood that adds an extra five minutes via biking. The Town of Clayton is currently working with FEMA to replace the bridge, and there is no estimated completion timeframe.

claytongreenway - 33After biking the hilly detour through the neighborhood we met up with the trail and continued south. The trail remains mostly flat and sunny with clear views of the river. We passed a large sandy access spot for the river, complete with benches. Then, we biked under Covered Bridge Rd with a history that dates back to 1863 when it was first commissioned as a ferry replacement. Historians believe the bridge was covered around 1883 and most recently replaced in its current concrete form in 1980.

Shortly after passing Covered Bridge Rd, we passed MP 31 and crossed a large pedestrian bridge over the Neuse River. We enjoyed seeing so many benches and picnic tables donated by the Rotary Club of Clayton. About 1/2 mile later, we made a sharp right turn through a construction zone to stay on Clayton’s greenway, officially called Sam’s Branch Greenway at this point. 

Sam’s Branch Greenway

claytongreenway - 39After safely maneuvering through the sand and dirt construction zone, the 1.25-mile paved trail leads away from the river towards North O’Neil St. Along the way we passed beautiful community art displays of hand-painted wooden fish. Then we biked by a public art garden featuring butterfly-shaped bike racks, benches, totem pole and a little free library. The trail also showcases information signs about forest animals in the area before passing a developing neighborhood and ending at a large greenway access parking lot at 1358 N O’Neil St.

Even though N O’Neil St is one of the main arteries leading to downtown Clayton (and Deep River Brewing) we aren’t adventurous enough to bike on main roads yet. So, we turned around and biked the 7.5 mile return trip to Mial Plantation Rd. We noticed better detour signage around the damaged bridge on our way home.

Despite the detour and construction we passed, it’s pretty amazing you can bike nearly 33 miles one-way from Falls Lake Dam to Sam’s Branch Greenway trailhead. With greenway connections to the Town of Knightdale (via Mingo Creek Trail) and future connections to the Town of Wake Forest greenways, people all over the area have so much access to outdoor adventures.

Helpful References

Milepost Points of Reference

  • Falls Lake Dam – MP 0.0
  • Mial Plantation Rd greenway parking – MP 26.25
  • Wake/Johnston County line – MP 27.5
  • Covered Bridge Rd & Clayton River Walk on the Neuse trailhead – MP 31
  • Sam’s Branch Greenway trailhead – MP 32.5

Thumbs up: donated benches and picnic tables sprinkled along the way, public art displays, scenic views along river, greenway access points, jurisdictional connections

Thumbs down: detour signage coming from the north, construction zone near intersection of Clayton River Walk on the Neuse and Sam’s Branch Greenway

Bryan Park (Richmond, Va)

Bryan ParkOver Spring Break we vacationed with friends and family in Virginia. We initially wanted to visit the newly renovated Maymont Park (see my 2012 park review) in Richmond, but opted for the quieter Bryan Park instead. With its granite archways, expansive rolling hills, recreational areas, and natural spots Bryan Park is the perfect crossroads of Virginia’s history and nature!

History of Bryan Park

Bryan Park is located on the Northside of Richmond at 4308 Hermitage Rd between I-95 and US-64. According to Richmondoutside.com, the history of Bryan Park dates back to the late 1700s when the Young family owned the 600 acre Westwood Estate. In 1800, Young’s Spring served as a meeting spot for a planned slaved rebellion (formally known as Gabriel’s Rebellion) that went awry. Rosina Young inherited half of the estate, which is most of Bryan Park today, after her father’s passing in 1832. During the Civil War, Confederate soldiers setup a defense line near the Rosewood farmhouse on the property. Following the war, Rosina (and her daughter) continued to farm Rosewood until her death in 1906. 

With the booming development of Richmond’s Northside at the turn of the century, prominent Richmond businessmen, Lewis Ginter and Joseph Bryan (publisher of Richmond Times at the time), created large residential neighborhoods. After Bryan’s death in 1908, his widow, Belle Stewart Bryan, purchased Rosewood at a public auction. Then, she donated the land to the city as a memorial and for use as a public park. 

Then over the years, the Richmond City Council transformed the farm into a park.  The park’s condition deteriorated over the years until the mid-1990s when concerned citizens organized the Friends of Bryan Park (FoBP) group to improve and preserve the park. Today the park is a joint effort between the City of Richmond Parks & Rec and FoBP.

Our Visit – Playground

For our visit to Bryan Park, we drove through the main Hermitage Rd entrance passing under the massive granite archways. I stayed straight, relying on map memory (not the signage), to park in a small gravel lot near the playgrounds. The kids jumped out and ran across the field to the playground area. 

The playground features fun climbing structures, a large shaded teeter totter, tot swings, regular swings, and a large jungle gym. The jungle gym features a tree-themed design with unique climbing ladders, rock wall, and twisty and straight slides. The kids loved alternating between the twisty slide and climbing areas.

Hiking & Creek

After exhausting the playground, we consulted Google Maps to find a sandy splashing area along Jordan’s Branch. Thinking we had the spot realized, we hopped into our cars and drove up the street closer to Shelter #1. We walked along the left side of Shelter #1 on Young’s Pond Ln and turned left onto a trail opening at the bottom of the small hill. The narrow trail meandered through the woods with the creek to the right. We wanted to find an easy access point to the creek with sandy areas on the opposite side. After 1/2 mile hike through the woods we succumbed to hungry voices and picnicked on the trail. While little people ate lunch, a few of us ran ahead to find the easy creek access. We stopped a little too soon – the easy creek access was less than 50 yards ahead. 

Following our picnic lunch, we headed to the easy access and crossed the shallow parts to the sandy banks. The kids loved splashing in the creek, looking for tadpoles, and walking in the sand. It was a really warm day, so the cool water was very welcoming.

After splashing, we headed back across the bank to brush off dirt and walk back to the cars. Unbeknownst to us, we happened upon a shortcut on the way back and came out at the trailhead on Jordan’s Branch Ln. We quickly walked to the parking lot and then drove to Ardent Craft Ales for some much deserved beer and snacks (New England IPA was my fave).

I always enjoy discovering a new (to me) Richmond park because of its ties to the area’s rich history. Even though Bryan Park was a little overgrown, it’s nice the great citizens of FoBP and community partners support the park’s preservation. Be sure to check out their events page for how to volunteer or attend a program! I’d love to return to the park (sans kids) and follow the self-guided tour map or admire the azaleas in full bloom.

Additional Resources:

Thumbs up: park’s rich history, beautiful rolling hills and old trees, unique natural features, variety of recreational activities, fun playground area

Thumbs down: overgrown areas, poor signage

Durant Nature Preserve: White House Road & South Lakeside Trail

This past Spring we took advantage of warmer days and met friends at Durant Nature Preserve for easy family hiking (about one total mile), playground time and a picnic at the nearby Compass Rose Brewery. Durant Nature Preserve is a quiet, woodsy park with hiking trails, lakes for fishing, playgrounds, a nature play space, butterfly garden, open fields, great engaging programs, and more. We’ve explored this park several times in the past, and love discovering something new each time. For this visit, we drove to the park’s north entrance at 8305 Camp Durant Rd and parked near the small open field to access White House Road Trail.

White House Road Trail is a wide, unpaved trail in a heavily wooded section of the park. Leaves and pine needles covered most of the trail, and its flat surface made it easy for kiddo running. The kids enjoyed sprinting ahead to find flora and fauna. Most of their findings consisted of moss, sticks, and listening for birds. Then, we crossed over the small gravel path that separates the lakes and turned left towards the South Lakeside Trail. 

South Lakeside Trail is a narrow dirt trail that meanders up and down along the south side of the Lower Lake. The kids enjoyed crossing small streams, finding pine cones, and throwing rocks into the lake. The trail’s gentle banks make it easy for younger children to access the water’s edge. After finishing our half mile hike along South Lakeside Trail, we walked across the lake to the playground. Finally, we finished our morning outing with a quick drive to Compass Rose Brewery for beers and a picnic lunch. 

Additional Resources:

Thumbs up: quiet outdoorsy park, easy family hiking, variety of activities to do, easy access to water’s edge

Thumbs down: lacks helpful trail signage